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Scroll down the page for a complete contents summary, a Preface and a sample chapter from the Campervan & Motorhome Book    AU$37.00

Preface - the need for this book

Tens of thousands of people travel the length and breadth of this country using cars, 4WDs, campervans, motorhomes, caravans and trailers. For many such people, travelling is an ongoing way of life.

It is a rapidly expanding activity with associated clubs and organisations growing rapidly, yet despite this growth little independent information is available about the innumerable aspects of buying, building, converting, or even using, campervans and motorhomes.

Whilst building my own vehicle, I constantly received varying and often misleading information by salespeople, particularly about electrical matters. This book attempts to alleviate the situation for those seeking to buy , build or refit. And especially for those who intend to do the "big trip".

It's rare to get everything right first time. That which seems ideal on paper often proves impracticable in use. Hopefully this book will help you avoid at least some of the major traps.

It helps to gain first-hand experience before purchasing a vehicle or starting a long-term building project. Attend a few meetings of associated clubs, such as the Campervan & Motorhome Club of Australia, and talk to members about their vehicles, features and failings. Ideally, hire a motorhome or two to gain first-hand experience

Chapter 2 - The Choice of Fuel - diesel, petrol or LPG?
	Petrol - Cheaper, smoother, quieter, but need more servicing. Uses more fuel...
	Liquefied petroleum gas - Smoother running, less engine wear, lower emissions. But cost savings due mainly to favourable taxation - if that changed!...
	Diesel - Better pulling power, ultra-reliable, cheap on fuel, but less flexible in city driving...
	Turbo charged diesel - Increases pulling power and efficiency. Can be retrofitted but best installed at chassis stage...
	Intercoolers - Further increases power (and efficiency) of turbo charged engines...
	Fuel consumption - Below 80 km/hr (50 mph), a 4-5 tonne diesel engined motorhome uses about 14 litre/100 km - increasing by about.... Petrol engined vehicles use about 40% more...
	The final choice? - For largish campervans, and motorhomes, I'd pick a diesel every time...

Chapter 3 - The Interior
	Let life-style determine layout - Will you live mainly outside, mainly inside - or somewhere between the two? Each needs a different approach ...
	Structured storage - The space required depends on how well it's structured - big open cupboards and shelves are hugely wasteful -there are better alternatives...
	Wardrobes - Waste space and are claustrophobic in small vehicles - acceptable alternatives...
	Inside shower/toilet - Most owners find them essential...
	Beds - Preferably have a permanent bed rather than a dinette that converts - there are many ways of doing so...
	Kitchens - Adequate air intake and exhaust is essential. Consider an inside oven and a second outside two/three burner cook top...
	Washing machines - Use one with a low-energy DC motor...
	Pop-Top - or Full Height Roof? - Pop-tops reduce travelling height by half a metre, lower fuel consumption, provide good ventilation. But they need a lot of effort to raise and lower...
	Awnings - All-but essential but many are more picturesque than practical...
	Awnings for Pop Tops - Essential reading if planning to fit an awning to a pop top...
	Housing odds and ends - How to utilise otherwise wasted space...
	Air conditioning - Not necessarily bad, but must not replace natural ventilation.
	Interior heating - Diesel power is one possibility...

Chapter 4 - Building Your Own
	Staying within legal weight - A real trap for home builders...
	Keeping it light - Various materials, what they weigh and how to use them (powder-coated sheet aluminium really saves weight!)...
	Keeping it upright - Locate heavy things low down and centrally between axles...
	Wire baskets - Consider using frames and pull-out wire baskets - how to do it...
	Wiring/pipes etc - Where and how to install, allowing for future access...
	Electrical wiring - Brief resume (but covered in detail in 'Motorhome Electrics - and Caravans too!)'...
	Insulation - There are thinner and more effective solutions than thick wool or fibreglass batts...
	Registering the vehicle - The local requirements...
	Weight of materials - Chipboard, plywood, water and diesel (plus tanks), batteries, solar modules etc....

Chapter 5 - The Electrics - an overview
	Staying on site use - Most commercially-built vehicles lack capacity for more than one night away from mains power...
	The 'house' battery - The electrical equivalent of a bank - but only lets you withdraw a small part of that deposited...
	How much can I use? - Away from mains power - about 3%-5% of that of an all-electric home but this is not nearly as restricting as it might seem. What can and cannot be used...
	Refrigerators - Gas, electric or units that run on either...
	Inverters & appliances - Consider inverter power for everything except water heating, cooking and refrigeration...
	Computers - Big colour screens are energy gobblers - laptops are a better proposition..
	Lighting - Incandescent, halogen or fluorescent - how to choose...
	Electrical safety - The importance of correct polarity etc...

Chapter 6 - Batteries & Charging
	Why batteries disappoint - A standard vehicle charging system will not charge a conventional battery beyond 70%. Nor can that battery be discharged (without damage) consistently below 50%. This does not leave much to use...
	Solving the problem - Two ways or remedying the above...
	Smart regulators - Also known as three-step regulators - can double effective capacity...
	Alternators - There is little to be gained by a high output alternator alone - here's what else needs to be done...
	The choice of battery - Starter, marine, deep-cycle, gel cell - or AGM? Their pros and cons...
	Measuring the state of charge - Voltage measurement is close to meaningless...

Chapter 7 - Solar & Other Energy
	Extending time on site - Three main ways of doing so...
	Solar energy - Clean, silent, and reliable...
	Estimating system sized - Panel output ratings can be misleading - here's what they really produce...
	Panel mounting - Permanently, or carried loose. The pros and cons of each, Does tracking matter?...
	Solar regulators - A must, with a few minor exceptions...
	Four typical systems - Recommendations for four typical systems...
	How much power each day? - The average power obtainable for all parts of Australia...
	Mains battery chargers - Many chargers kill batteries stone dead. How to choose one that doesn't...
	Wind power - Practicable only for long stays on exposed sites - if its windy enough for the generator, it's too windy to camp!...
	Motor generators - An alternative to solar power, but noisy and costly to run...

Chapter 8 - Inverters
	Mains power from batteries - Now reliable and efficient, inverters make mains-powered appliances practicable...
	Avoid small loads - Inverters should not be used for very minor loads such as an electric clock (only). Here's why...
	Inverter size - Pick one big enough for the job - but no bigger/ How to establish the right size...
	Inverter types - Square-wave, modified square-wave, sine-wave. Picking the right one is essential...

Chapter 9 - Lighting
	Fluoro, compact fluoro, halogen, or incandescent? - Efficiencies and characteristics compared...

Chapter 10 - Refrigerators
	Three-way units - Use a lot of energy when running on electricity but economical and practicable (on gas) on site. Current models excellent in tropical climates but correct installation a must...
	Electric only - Effective on the hottest days. Smaller ones run effectively from solar panels...
	Eutectic - Once 'pumped down' (electric) eutectic refrigerators need to be on only two or three hours a day...
	Energy consumption - 40-70 litre chest opening units draw 25-45 amp/hr/day. Large and door opening units use more..

Chapter 11 - Installing Gas
	The need for expertise - Installations must accord with relevant Gas Installation Codes (AG 5601-2002 in Australia) and must be done by a certified gas fitter.
	Cylinder location - If remaining connected to piping, cylinders must be...
	Compartment ventilation - Adequate ventilation is obligatory - here's what's required...
	Connecting to appliances - Two legally acceptable alternatives....
	Air vents - There must be two permanent air vents (or an area related to vehicle length)...
	Gas detectors - There are problems with gas detectors in small spaces...
	Gas water heaters (storage) - They sound like an unattended blow lamp in a small cupboard, but they are safe and reliable...
	Gas water heaters (instantaneous) - Only a 'room sealed appliance' may be used - but at least one meets the legal requirements. Here are the details...
	Gas consumption - If used for cooking twice a day, a 9 kg cylinder may last 4-6 weeks...

Chapter 12 - Water
	Water quantity - How much per person/day...
	Water tanks - Stainless steel is safer and there's no problem with corrosion...
	Water pumps - An automatic pump detects pressure changes in the pipes - work best with a pressure accumulator...
	Water connection systems - Snap together systems are neat and quick to install, but lack of standards complicates...
	Hose quality - Pressurised water hose is normally made of clear plastic with nylon reinforcement - also specialised hose for drinking water...
	Mains water pressure - Add a parallel water inlet with a pressure reducer...
	The need for filtering - Guardia (faecal contamination) and crytosporidium are .... Other less-hostile contamination can also cause upsets...
	Types of filter - Permanently installed filtering will remove most nasties but not necessarily...
	Heating water - Black poly pipe in the sun. Utilising waste engine heat, diesel-powered heaters etc...

Chapter 13 - Preparing For the Trip
	Keeping it going - Poorly maintained vehicles a repairer's nightmare ...
	Diesels - ... dirty and contaminated fuel and water in the fuel are also a problem - the latter can be dangerous...
	Suspect fuel - Cheap diesel of unknown brand may cause the engine to overheat and/or foul injectors ..
	Oils ain't necessarily oils! - Dirt build-up is not the only reason for changing oil...
	Petrol engines - Most breakdowns are attributable to fuel blockages or electrical problems...
	Servicing the electrics - The maintenance required...
	Computer-controlled engines - Increased reliability, but problems necessitate seriously expert attention...
	Air Filters - A four-litre engine takes in a volume of air the size a medium-sized house every 150 seconds - this air must be clean and...
	Avgas - Will not harm engines intended to run on leaded fuel...
	Spares - Carrying selected spares saves time and money, here's what's to take...
	Common Problems - A well-tested listing of the most likely problems, and how to avoid them...

Chapter 14 - Travelling in Isolated Areas
	Fuel availability - Less than 400 km intervals along most outback routes in Australia, but there are exceptions..
	Fuel storage - Jerry cans are cheap but storing them safely is a problem, there are better alternatives...
	Outback breakdowns - The most common outback problems are...
	Ingested dirt/water - An engine welcomes neither hot air, dust or anything liquid...
	Oil temperature - Almost as valuable as knowing water temperature...
	Bull bars - A need for long distance travellers and country dwellers, but there are concerns about their safety and specific requirements if there's air-bag protection...
	Off-road driving courses - Choose carefully - there's some macho egos around!...

Chapter 15 - Mainly About Tyres
	Overloading - "With gross overloading, and all-but universal under-inflation, [US] recreational vehicle tyres are subject to more abuse than any other known form of tyre usage ... including mine and quarry vehicles" (Quote for recent US survey)...
	Upgrading tyres - It makes sense to upgrade one or two ply ratings...
	Tubed or tubeless - By eliminating tubes, tyres run cooler and last longer, but tubes should be carried for emergency repairs...
	Retreads - Now more reliable, but care is needed that the casing is sound...
	Tyre balance - Particularly important for large wheels and for vehicles with beam front axles. How to fix little-known problems with small diameter wheels with large tyres...
	Tyre pressures - Use tyre manufacturers' rather than vehicle makers recommendations - here's why...
	Reducing tyre pressure - Dropping tyre pressures may be essential in soft sand. How to do this without damaging the tyres...
	High pressure low profile tyres - May not be fully inflatable by out-of-town service stations...
	Dual rear wheels - Best avoided if travelling off-road...

Chapter 16 - Communications
	Alternatives - Cellular telephones, HF radio, satellite communications...
	HF Radio - Still valuable and with romantic appeal, but an increasingly obsolete technology...
	Satellite telephone Small, light, reliable - but costly. But is the way of the future...
	Email - Good, cheap and effective way of keeping in touch from virtually anywhere..
	CB radio - For chatting and exchanging information, but cannot be relied on for emergency...
	EPIRBS - Automatically transmit a position indicating signal that is received by satellite - must be reserved for life-threatening situations...

Chapter 17 - Television
	Outside town - With a basic antenna a good picture is usually receivable within 15/20 km radius of cities and most large towns, better antennas will...
	TV antennas - No single antenna can optimally receive all stations...
	Recommended antennas - If you can live with UHF-only, the log periodic type is a good...
	Locating the antenna - VHF antennas need to be as high as possible - but UHF antennas...
	Antenna amplifiers - Can only boost signals that are already in the cable, but may assist in 'clean' fringe areas...
	Satellite TV - An acceptable picture can be picked up by a 900 mm dish, but 1200 mm is preferable...
	Choosing the TV - Any fringe area TV is fine if it's mains powered - otherwise go for a..
	Tuning the TV - Essentially simple but often complicated by semi-comprehensible instructions. Here, in plain English, how to do it...
	Video recorders - Stick to basic units - or you'll pay for costly but rarely used...

Chapter 18 - Keeping Safe
	Avoiding being hassled - Usually just thoughtless drunks - but can be disconcerting - better to avoid such problems by...
	Fire - Install at least two dry powder extinguishers...
	Sandflies/Mosquitoes - More than a nuisance, and the latter carry dangerous viruses. Various ways of avoiding...
	Snakes - Defensive rather aggressive, most prefer to co-exist. Never try to kill one - that's how most people get bitten...
	Crocodiles - If you see them smile you are too close...
	Cyclones - The sources of information, and what the warnings mean. Protecting your vehicle. Knowing when to leave!...
	Bogged in Sand - Not hard to get out, but knowing how is essential...
	Broken windscreens - Stones mostly rise and fall. They are hurled towards you. How to avoid...

Chapter 19 - Keeping Legal
	Licence update - The various classifications, which is needed to drive what...
	Definitions - Vehicle classifications demystified...
	Towing - What you can tow with what...
	'Camping' defined - You are likely to left alone if you do not raise a pop-top roof, lower steps, have anything outside - and do not let anything drain onto the ground. Also camp well away from commercial caravan parks...
	Drinking alcohol in camp - The intent of the relevant Act (Section 25 of the Police Offenses Act) is explained. 'It is unlikely in the extreme that police would take action' etc...
	Fishing licences - Take this seriously, one State can even confiscate your vehicle...
	Voting - Pre-registering as an 'itinerant voter' allows....

Chapter 20 - Where to Travel
	Places to avoid! - travellers have outstripped facilities in many popular areas - but there's ample room if you know where to go. And when...
	Travelling on dirt roads - Where it's safe and when...
	Maps - Buying up-to-date maps is difficult outside major cities...
	GPS - Useful for hiking but overkill for most travellers...
	Quarantine exclusion zones - ...illegal to bring uncooked fruit and vegetables into...

Chapter 21 - What it Costs
	Average spending - It may be less than staying at home. Average costs incurred by typical travellers...
	Reducing costs - Slashing expenditure - most will (in a week or two) save more than the cost of this book!...
	Site fees - Ask about discounts - few operators will volunteer them...
	National Parks - Attractive and with basic facilities, but becoming increasingly costly. But fees can be saved...
	Free camping - Most long-term travellers free-camp over 50% of the time. Tips on how to do it...
	Food - Likely to be your largest single cost, Save money by...
	Eating out - Often disappointing outside major cities...
	Insurance - It pays to shop around....
	Concessions - Checking your entitlements can save a lot of money...
	Probable living costs - An itemised and yearly updated Table..

Appendix 1
	Likely Needs (and their individual weights) - includes: general, medical, kitchen, cleaning, supplies, food, recreation, tools, reference material, VITAL THINGS, comprehensive check lists. Also probable total weight....
Appendix 2
	Contact details - Names, addresses, phone numbers etc, of related organisations, companies and suppliers.
Appendix 3
	The Campervan & Motorhome Club of Australia Ltd. About this worthwhile and rapidly growing Club.

The Author

I was originally a research engineer with General Motors Research Division, specialising in monitoring and measuring various aspects of vehicle behaviour and performance particularly in off-road usage. In the 1960s I drove a large 4WD mobile laboratory/motorhome twice across the length and breadth of Africa, recording track conditions. I spent further years running my own business designing and building everything from nuclear scanners to 500 tonne concrete testers before switching careers in 1970 to found the now-worldwide "Electronics Today International", and other publications in electronics, computing, telecommunications, and music.

From 1982-1990, I was technology editor of "The Bulletin" and "Australian Business". During this time I founded the periodical "Australian Communications" and also wrote the Federal Government's "Guide to Information Technology".

My wife (Maarit) and I own an Australian-made OKA that we converted into a fully off-road motorhome. We have taken this vehicle twice around Australia, including to the tip of Cape York, the long route across the Simpson desert, and many of Australia's major and minor inland tracks.

CHAPTER 2

The Choice of Fuel diesel, petrol, or LPG?

FOR many, choosing between diesel and petrol causes sleepless nights, but in reality the choice is fairly simple. Diesel and petrol engines behave differently. You simply choose whichever best matches your intended usage.

Compared with diesels, petrol engines are cheaper, smoother, quieter, and friendlier to drive in town. On the down-side, they require more service, are more complex, and use up to 40% more fuel on road and far more off-road.

They have little "turning effort" (torque) at low engine speeds, relying upon the gear-box (or the aptly named torque converter in automatics) to multiply the engine's turning effort. As a result a heavily laden petrol-engined vehicle may be unable to hold top gear on even minor hills or into strong headwinds. This results in more gear changing (whether automatic or manual) and greater fuel consumption.

Liquefied Petroleum Gas (LPG)

Because LPG, a mixture of propane and butane, is currently less than half the cost of diesel and petrol, converting a petrol engine to run on LPG can cut fuel bills. But LPG is only cheap because, the ubiquitous GST apart, it is not otherwise taxed.

If it were, the cost benefit would be lost. It is also quite expensive in many regional centres (e.g. as high as 80 cents/litre in the Northern Territory and Western Australia). Running on LPG is claimed to provide further benefits such as smoother running, less wear and tear, and lower emissions. Reliability is good - as proven by taxi fleets, many of which run on LPG.

Conversion costs $2000.$2500, so you need to cover 35,000.50,000 km before you break even. Fuel consumption is 15.20% greater than with petrol. Torque and power reduce by about 10% but users say they only notice this on hills.

The gas is available in most major Australian towns and cities, and the major routes between, but rarely otherwise. Information on gas availability can be obtained from the various State Energy Centres, and also from automobile institutions such as the NRMA.

Converters usually retain the existing petrol system. They add a dashboard control to switch between gas and petrol. Changing between gas and petrol can be done whilst driving. Do it at least twice each month to keep the mechanism in good working order.

Liquid Petroleum Gas works best in engines designed for unleaded petrol. Its use otherwise may burn valves and valve seats unless they are replaced by equivalents meant for unleaded fuel. Converters claim this problem can be overcome by running on leaded petrol for a day or two each week. But as leaded fuel is being phased out this is only a short-term solution. LPG conversion is a specialised business. Have the work done only by experienced installers.

Diesel Engines

Compared with petrol engines of similar size, diesels have substantially greater torque (pulling power) at lower engine speeds. This enables them to keep pulling at engine speeds and loads that stall petrol engines. Many diesel-engined vehicles will continue to move slowly and surely, even up hills, with one's foot off the accelerator pedal.

For any given road speed, diesel engines usually turn over more slowly, resulting in more "restful" progress. This also aids engine longevity (maybe the driver's too). Confirming the former at least, many diesel-engined vehicles have five-year warranties whereas most petrol-engined vehicles are warranted for three.

Because diesels lack high voltage electrics, they are relatively immune to water - unless it's ingested through the air intake, when it instantly (and often terminally) becomes very bad for them indeed.

Turbo charged Diesel

A turbocharger increases the density of the air drawn into the engine's cylinders. This increases torque and efficiency, and decreases fuel consumption by 5.10%.

Turbo charging can be very effective, in fact one writer suggests that turbochargers and diesel engines are like marriages made in heaven. An increasing number of diesel 4WDs and most large trucks now have turbochargers as original equipment.

A turbocharger can be retrofitted, but many installers charge extra for motorhomes, citing lack of engine accessibility as justification. If building your own vehicle, have the turbo installed at chassis stage.

A minor reduction in compression ratio (usually via a thicker head gasket) may be required. The engine may also benefit from a larger or freer flowing exhaust system.

An inbuilt safety mechanism such as a waste gate (a valve that automatically limits pressure) safeguards engine components.

Intercoolers

A turbocharger heats the air it compresses. This is not desirable. Because hot air is less dense than cold air, less of it is pumped into the cylinders. (Technically-minded readers will recognise this is an example of Charles' Law.)

An intercooler reverses this effect. It is a big strong radiator that cools the turbo-heated air, enabling the engine to accept a denser charge. Adding an intercooler increases power by 10% to 15% and reduces fuel consumption by about half that amount.

Diesel efficiency

A petrol engine's power is regulated by constricting both air and fuel: with the throttle only partially open, air intake is reduced, thus also reducing the effective compression ratio. As shown below, a diesel engine's air intake is unrestricted, enabling the cylinders to take in much the same amount of air at al engine loads, hence the effective compression ratio remains much the same. Fuel consumption of a diesel is thus mainly a function of load.

ABOVE (left/right) The descending piston draws draws in air through the open inlet valve (top left). With both valves closed, the ascending piston compresses the air, which rises in temperature to about 500 degrees. Diesel fuel injected into the cylinder is ignited by the hot air. The burning air/fuel mixture expands exerting a strong downward force on the piston. Picture courtesy CAV/Lucas.

Diesel Reliability

Diesel engines are inherently more reliable than petrol engines. Given adequate compression, and fuel injected in more or less the right amounts at roughly the right times, diesels more or less have to run! Because they are comparatively simple, they are more readily fixed in remote areas. There, and substantially for these reasons, most vehicles are diesels, and diesel fuel is more readily available than petrol in these areas.

The diesel engine's high compression provides invaluable engine braking. This can be enhanced by fitting an exhaust brake. Engine braking saves brake pad wear and, particularly for heavy vehicles, reduces the risk of brake fade.

Late generation diesels use electronic and computer controlled ultra-high-compression injectors. This technology originated with ship and truck engines so reliability is unlikely to be prejudiced.

Diesel Trends

The sulphur content of Australian diesel fuel is being lowered to reduce emissions. This will also extend injector life and engine longevity, but may cause oil seals to deteriorate in older engines.

There's a move in the USA and Europe toward biodegradable diesel fuel. The best-known is made from a methyl ester derivative of soybean oil. The new fuel slashes pollution yet requires no engine modifications. Also in hand are efforts to run diesels on LPG, but conversion is more complex than with petrol engines.

Fuel Consumption

Below 80 km/hr, fuel consumption for a four to five tonne diesel-powered motorhome is typically 10.14 litres/100 km. This increases by about 10% for every 1000 kg thereafter. A turbo-diesel will consume about 10% less. Above 80 km/hr, speed increasingly becomes the major factor.

Fuel costs vary around Australia, depending on government and fuel company greed.

Diesel currently costs about four cents/litre more than petrol in most areas.

Because petrol and diesel vehicles usually have similar size fuel tanks, a diesel vehicle will have a greater range. Seven hundred kilometres is typical. As a result, less supplementary fuel needs to be carried in isolated areas.

The Final Choice?

New diesel-powered vehicles cost more than their petrol equivalents to the extent that one may need to cover 100,000 km before even recovering the cost. Low down torque, more relaxed driving characteristics, reliability, longevity etc., are probably more relevant considerations.

Well-maintained diesels run for well over half a million kilometres, but inadequate maintenance can slash this by half. Diesel engine overhauls are costly, so if buying secondhand have the engine checked over by a specialist before handing over your money.

A petrol engine is cheaper, quieter, more powerful, and more flexible than its current diesel equivalent. These factors cause it to be a generally better proposition for city driving. Further, diesel is not available at all big city service stations.

LPG offers some benefits but the gas is so expensive in the northern and western parts of Australia that it is not an economic proposition for around-Australia travel.

For larger campervans and motorhomes, and any vehicle used extensively in the outback or off-road, I'd pick a (preferably turbo charged) diesel every time.

A diesel engine develops maximum torque over a limited engine speed range. A tachometer (an engine speed indicator) enables this characteristic to be fully exploited, assisting the driver to change gear at the right speeds to optimise torque. This results in smoother, faster, and more economical progress. The engine will also have an easier time.